There is a lot to do on the island, mostly outdoors. One morning I went kayaking down Rio Istiam, the river that goes through the middle of the island. I was joined by Ingrid, a 73 year old German woman who I had met on the chicken bus from Granada. We were promised caiman, monkeys and turtles and although it was nothing on the Bolivian Pampas, we did see them all.
There are two main towns, Altagracias and Moyogalpa where the ferry arrives. I chose to stay in Santa Cruz which is right in between the two volcanoes. There are literally less than ten houses/restaurants/shacks in Santa Cruz. Most people who visit the island hire push bikes or motorbikes. I thought I would do that but ended up actually walking everywhere. On my last afternoon I hitchhiked on the back of a motorbike to my favourite cafe, Cafe Campestre, where I had the beetroot and chocolate cake I had been craving for days.
You could easily spend a week on Ometepe, doing hikes, cycling around the island and discovering more swimming holes and beaches. I was really happy with my three days but it was time to head to Leon, in search for lava!